25% AHA, 2% BHA, 5% PHA Peeling Solution

What you need to know

This is a serum with Glycolic Acid. The smallest alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Exfoliates dead skin cells on the surface, improves texture, and stimulates collagen over time.

Who should use this: If your concern is rough texture, dull skin, fine lines, or mild hyperpigmentation, this ingredient addresses that directly. 5-10% for daily use, 20-30% for peels (use sparingly). In a cleanser, contact time is too short for the percentage to matter.

This is a serum with Lactic Acid. An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that is larger than glycolic acid, so it penetrates more slowly and gently. Exfoliates while also providing mild hydration.

Who should use this: If your concern is sensitive skin that needs exfoliation, rough texture, KP (keratosis pilaris), or body care, this ingredient addresses that directly. 5-10% for daily use. Up to 15% for more intensive exfoliation. In body care, higher concentrations are common because body skin is thicker.

This is a serum with Salicylic Acid. A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that penetrates into pores to dissolve oil and dead skin cells. The only commonly used acid that works inside the pore, not just on the surface.

Who should use this: If your concern is acne, blackheads, clogged pores, or oily skin, this ingredient addresses that directly. 0.5-2% for leave-on products. In cleansers, contact time is too short for the percentage to matter much.

This is a serum with Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid). A humectant that holds up to 1000x its weight in water. Draws moisture from the environment into your skin. Found naturally in your skin but declines with age.

Who should use this: If your concern is dehydrated skin, dry skin, fine lines from dehydration, or all skin types, this ingredient addresses that directly. 0.1-2%. Low molecular weight penetrates deeper. High molecular weight sits on top and plumps. Most products use a mix.

Key ingredients

The product is marketed as a 25% AHA, 2% BHA, 5% PHA peeling solution. Looking at the INCI, the AHA blend is primarily Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid, both potent alpha hydroxy acids. Glycolic acid is well-known for its small molecular size, allowing deep penetration and effective exfoliation, but this also means a higher potential for irritation. Lactic acid is slightly milder and also provides some hydration. Salicylic Acid is the BHA, effective for oil solubility and penetrating pores, which can be irritating in higher concentrations, especially when combined with multiple AHAs. Gluconolactone is the listed PHA, a gentler exfoliant that also offers antioxidant benefits and hydration. However, its efficacy might be overshadowed by the stronger AHAs present. The product also includes soothing ingredients like Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, and Panthenol, which are welcome additions to mitigate potential irritation from such a strong blend of acids.

Who should use this

This product might be considered by individuals with resilient, non-sensitive, and non-dry skin who are already experienced with high-strength chemical exfoliants and are looking for an intensive treatment for concerns like significant texture issues, hyperpigmentation, and stubborn clogged pores. It is not for beginners or those with compromised skin barriers.

Who should skip this

Anyone with sensitive skin, dry skin, compromised skin barriers, or those new to chemical exfoliation should absolutely skip this product. Pregnant women should avoid this product and all chemical exfoliants, opting for gentle routines and 100% mineral sunscreens for sun protection. The high concentration and combination of multiple strong acids significantly increase the risk of irritation, redness, burning, and potential skin damage if not used correctly or on unsuitable skin types. The existing Reddit comment about redness further highlights this risk.

How to use

Apply a thin, even layer to clean, dry skin, avoiding the eye area. Leave on for no more than 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Use once a week at most, and always follow with a hydrating serum and a broad-spectrum sunscreen the next morning. Do not combine with other active ingredients in the same routine, and ensure no other actives are used for at least 24-48 hours before and after application. This is a high-strength product; less is more.

What users say

With 0 reviews and an N/A average score, there is no broad user sentiment to summarize. However, one Reddit comment noted significant redness after use, indicating the product's potential for irritation, especially for those with sensitive or reactive skin.

Price context

At Rs645, this peeling solution is positioned as an affordable option for an intensive active treatment. Compared to other high-strength peeling solutions on the market, especially those from international brands, it is significantly cheaper. However, the lower price might come with compromises in formulation elegance or gentleness. Alternatives at this price point are typically single-active serums, which might be a safer entry point for many users. The 40% off tag makes it even more appealing from a cost perspective, but users should prioritize skin health over savings when dealing with such potent ingredients.

Final take

This Pilgrim peeling solution is an ambitious product attempting to deliver intensive exfoliation at an accessible price. While the ingredient list is potent, the high concentration and combination of multiple acids make it a high-risk, high-reward product. We would recommend extreme caution, especially for those new to actives; start with milder, single-active exfoliants first. For truly resilient and experienced skin, it might offer results, but the potential for irritation is significant.

Same ingredient, different brands

Pilgrim is not the only brand selling a serum with glycolic acid. Here is what else exists at what price. Same active, different formulations. The choice comes down to texture, price, and what your skin prefers.